Re-stumping House, Building, Shed, Woolshed 02 67 345 300

Developers and more list below

Please note a bit of information when restumping your house or building a new
Re-stumping House, Building, Shed, Woolshed, to help you

Thank you for visiting and the information is a guide  to help you and as a company we focus on our Adjustable Pier Cap and an Australian Product made here in Deepwater NSW

Trethewey / Dawson
New England Highway
Deepwater NSW 2371
Australia
Phone  02 67 345 300
Below here the Source Google for Developers and more about 70 Organisation. Deepwater is the place to buy your Adjustable Piers Caps . Australia Made talk to us and we will look after you.
Trethewey/Dawson. Ask for John or Eddie or Phone, 02 67 345 300 
Email
jtrethewy@bigpond.com

Home

Adjustable Pier Cap
An Adjustable Pier Cap is a levelling device for new steel or timber flooring systems and for readjusting levels in case of sinkage.

Pier Caps are placed over SHS piers then tek-screwed (14g) to pier through holes in angle iron retainers. The same process applies to the footing plate.

Restumping
The Cap and SHS metal Piers are ideal for old homes - for restumping and levelling and to push or pull warps out of old timber bearers.

Piers should be cemented in if pulling warps out of old timber bearers, other wise footing plates can be used on cement pads



A message to the Builder .
For new homes. Restumping of older homes, Verandas. Footing plates to suit cap size.
Available in the following sizes, to suit 65mm SHS, 75mm SHS, 89mm SHS, 90mm SHS & 100mm SHS.
Fully Certified to the requirements of the Australian Standard Codes suitable for use in cyclonic and non cyclonic areas.
Engineers Certificate included.
No welding required

Modular Carports
These Modular Carports  are pleasant looking and you can have any amount of modules beginning with one modular to any other number, so you can have a carport that suits your money and you can add modules easily.
Notice have you have no pillars getting in the way as you park your Vehicle, Car, or any other Vehicle

 

We have given you  information so that you can decide how to do your Stumping, House, New House, Building, Office, Shed, Woolshed, D.I.Y renovating your place or maybe such as in the case with your older House, Building your Stumps need to be replaced. Builder, Developer, Building owner. Rural areas Station House.
....................................
You can see larger pictures on our Web Site and we recommend you to buy your Stumps, Adjustable Pier Caps, Columns, from us for the following reasons.

Just by looking at our pictures these Adjustable Pier Caps ooze quality
 

 

* There are other Adjustable Pier Caps, Columns, The Adjustable Pier Caps may even be cheaper, but we guarantee our Adjustable Pier Caps, quality such that you will not be disappointed we have certified the Caps for Cyclone and Non-Cyclonic areas.

 

 

*  Proudly we are an Australian Company in Deepwater NSW and our Adjustable Pier Caps are Australian Made and the Pillars or Columns if you need them are also made here in our Engineering Facility

 

* Give us a call we will look after you whether it be a few or thousands of Adjustable Pier Caps.

In today's world Australia's expanse and Cities we are a call away. Freight is fast.

 

 

Restumping a house
http://www.build.com.au/restumping-house

What is restumping?

Restumping, also known as reblocking, involves resetting (or replacing) the stumps on a house that uses a stump subfloor. This is normally necessary when the house stumps have settled as a result of soil movement, or when wooden stumps have rotted as a result of moisture in the soil. It is also a wise move to restump an older home that will be undergoing major renovations, due to the added strain on the structure of the house.

Restumping any house is a big undertaking and if it's not handled correctly, it could be very dangerous for you and your house.  

Restumping
Settling can create big gaps between stumps and floor bearers.
Image courtesy of Brent Dayman.

Does my home need restumping?

Signs that your house may need restumping include:

  • continually cracking interior walls
  • uneven, bowed or ‘soft’ floors 
  • exterior cracking on brickwork 
  • doors and windows not functioning correctly.

 
All houses are different, and are built on ground with different soil conditions. For that reason, every house will display deterioration in different ways. If failed stumping is left untreated though, the end result is the same; partial or total collapse of the structure. 

A house can be partially restumped if only certain areas need it, but there is always the risk that a few rotten stumps that were thought to be in good condition may collapse later on, requiring you to restump again. While wooden stumps may look fine, they may well be rotting under the ground. It’s a big job to have to return just to replace one or two stumps!

You can check the condition of a wooden stump by digging down around 10cm next to the stump and scratching at the base. If the wood gives easily, it is a good indicator of damage and will likely need to be replaced before it starts to crumble and drop, no longer supporting the floor above it. You should also look out for high water marks where moisture has been absorbed deep into the wood. If more than 20-30% of the stumps are damaged, it's almost certainly best to get them all replaced.

 How is a home restumped?

The first step is to assess which stumps need to be replaced or reset. This is normally done using a level to assess how even your floors are, and by checking the stumps themselves for movement and deterioration. The house is then gradually and slightly jacked up where the stump that needs to be replaced is, and existing stumps are either packed out to compensate for settling, or are removed and replaced altogether.

Depending on how much movement has occurred, it's possible that adjustments due to restumping the house will cause doorframes to warp, cracks in plasterwork, tile damage and similar issues.

 Wood stumps, steel stumps and concrete stumps

When houses are restumped these days, it is usually with galvanised steel or concrete stumps. These are not susceptible to many of the weaknesses that wood has – they don’t rot, are immune to termites and won’t warp over time. Steel stumps are also adjustable on-site, which is a great advantage when it comes to installation and can save you a great deal of time and effort.

While it can be quite expensive, it's well worth paying to have it done professionally and to the highest standard. Restumping is a difficult and dirty job, and having it done properly is crucial to the structural integrity of your home.

 

 

Restumping or reblocking houses

Restumping a house is one of the first costs for a renovator to consider. Foundations are the key to a long lasting renovation and the cost when done at the initial stages, before any other major works are commenced is well worth the investment.

We provide some ideas on rising damp. restumping and reblocking. Restumping costs are well worth the investment in the long term.

House Restumping or reblocking for Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth, Adelaide, Darwin, Canberra and Hobart.
Most houses built on timber stumps will need restumping but when?

Timber stumps can last anywhere from as little as 15 to as many as 80 years depending on soil conditions, timber used, drainage and termite attack.

A visual inspection can be made by scratching away the soil from the base of the stump (75mm to 100mm) and checking its condition. An Archicentre inspection will do this for you, or maybe a builder can advise on restumping.

Look for a reliable tradesman to restump or reblock your house, the house will need to jacked up, stumps removed and replaced with concrete stumps.
Floors will need to levelled, doors and windows may need to levelled as well this all adds to the price. Sounds like a lot of work, but restumping before commencing major renovations is worth it in the long run.

Underpinning

Now repalcing the foundations, are a little different to re – stumping. Here we are looking at underpinning. In the past that meant a lot of evcavation, today new methods including injection of a structural resin are alo possible.

Restumping costs

Typical restumping costs for a 3 bedroom house will be between $9000 and $ 15000 depending on access, slope, size of house and required weight bearing load.

Costs will also vary depending on the style, a typical house in Melbourne or Sydney will cost less than a ‘Traditional Queenslander’ in Brisbane, simply because the stumps will need to longer and stronger.

An old house in Melbourne or Sydney will cost more if it is close to the ground, than one that easy access. So prices can vary greatly for the same number of stumps.

If you are replacing floors in a house this is a great time to restump, costs will usually be less as access is easier.

Is it worth restumping a house?

Well yes and no. As with any renovation you need to look at the total project, restumping an otherwise sound house will usually be well worth it. A house with other problems such as termites, dry rot or poor construction may not be worth the cost of restumping, or renovating.
 

How it is done

Re-stumping process
Make sure that you are fully covered by insurance, you will need to see that your chosen tradesman if qualified and see appropriate proof.
You will need to contact your local council to see about building permits and other requirements. You may need a building surveyor in many cases
Reputable companies will require a small deposit 10 -15%.
You will need to enquire about what is actually going to be done.

  • All stumps
  • To existing height or higher
  • Guaranteed levelling of floors
  • Removal of old stumps, waste etc

Reinstatement of doors and windows to good opening condition is not always included so ask about this to avoid nasty surprises.
Now the fun starts
The house will be prepared for raising and levelling, this may involve disconnection of some services

  • The house will the jacked up and levelled.
  • New stump holes will be dug
  • Old stumps removed
  • Stumps will be set and the house set on the stumps

In older houses some of the sub floor may also need to be replaced.

If the house is very close to the ground the job can be more expensive with floor boards needing to be lifted as well. A house that is close to the ground may benefit from being lifted as well.

 

 

Source

http://www.lifestyle.com.au/property/guide-to-restumping.aspx

Re-stumping - also known as re-blocking in Victoria- is the process whereby timber stumps that support a house are replaced due to being rotted and defective.

It's a multi-million dollar business in Australia and unfortunately very few people are aware of the many potential pitfalls in this trade. Problems reported to Archicentre include contractors asking for advance payments then disappearing, unexpected damage to walls, windows and plumbing, work having to be redone, squeaking floors, and floors which are more crooked after having been stumped. To ensure you aren't the victim of unscrupulous operators, check the condition of the existing stumps before you do anything else.

1. Select your stumps

The first decision to make is to choose the most suitable type of new stumps.

Selection of stumps - Victoria

• Rot-resistant timber stumps, like Victorian red gum are still quite commonly used. Their advantage is that they are still sometimes 10% cheaper than concrete, and although they have the disadvantage of limited life expectancy, this will not affect occupants living in the house for less than 20 years.
• Perhaps the biggest disadvantage is that timber stumps cannot be as firmly secured to the bearers as concrete stumps so that re-levelling may not be quite as accurate.

Concrete stumps

• Concrete stumps are available in several types.
• The concrete stump with the most positive form of connection is the one with a 10mm diameter threaded rod at the top secured with a poured concrete pad footing. The threaded rod allows the stump to be bolted to the floor frame preventing both upward and downward movement. The concrete pad will provide protection against long term footing settlement.
• A further advantage is that by tightening the nut after the concrete pad has set, and by partially cutting the bowed bearers at their high points, high spots in the floor can be pulled down.
• Concrete stumps will last indefinitely except in extremely damp conditions where the metal reinforcement in the stump rusts and expands, causing weakness. This also applies in Queensland.

Selection of Stumps - Queensland

• Stumps in the past were made of 300mm diameter ironbark or similar rot-resistant timber. Now CCA (copper chrome arsenate) treated pine, or concrete stumps are used.
• The most positive form of connection to the bearer is a bracket fixed to the stump by a coach screw or bolt. The other end of the bracket is anchored to the bearer by a threaded end and nut. This is also a positive form of stump/bearer connection.
• In cases where the ground is unstable (soft), a concrete footing is sometimes poured.
• Because of high wind stresses, anchor bolts are required at each corner of a Queensland house, around the perimeter every four metres and under bracing walls. These bolts are also needed in high wind areas of Victoria.

2. Selecting the Right Contractor

Having chosen the most appropriate stumping system, extreme care should be taken in selecting a reliable and experienced contractor.

The contractor should have enough hydraulic jacks to lift the building in one or two sections. Generally one jack is required for each stump as there are about 80 stumps in an average 150 sq. metre (16 square) timber house, less for other types of housing like brick veneer (approx. 60). If too few jacks are used, the house will need to be lifted in several sections, which will cause severe and costly damage to plaster-work and framing

In choosing the contractor, the following points should be made clear when obtaining quotes. These points should also form the basis of a contract between you and the re-blockers:

• The type of stumps (and pads, if appropriate) to be used.
• The spacing of stumps.
• That on completion the floors will be brought reasonably back to level, say within 10mm.
• That the work will be in accordance with the relevant building regulations.
• That a council building permit will be obtained.
• The agreed cost.
• The start and expected completion date.
• That if floorboards must be removed, to what condition the floor will be reinstated and whose responsibility it is to remove and replace coverings.

When comparing quotations from several contractors, ensure that they all include the same items. The lowest price may only be indicative of a lesser number and poor choice of stumps, which may spell disaster in the long term.

After receiving the quotes, check the bona fides of the contractors by asking them to give you the names and telephone numbers of one or two people they have recently done work for. Check that these people are happy with the work, and you may even ring the local council's Building Surveyor in the area where work was carried out and make sure that the council was satisfied with the job.

3. Monitor the work after it has commenced

After the work has commenced, it is essential that it be supervised carefully. The most common faults are:
• Floors not properly re-leveled. This should be thoroughly checked with a spirit level, or preferably, a dumpy level.
• Stumps not being securely fixed to bearers, (this may eventually result in a noisy floor).
• Stumps not positioned directly underneath the joining of two bearers.
• Stumps not centrally located over pads, where pads are used.
• Failure to provide ant caps between stumps and bearers.

When new stumps have been installed and the jacks removed, the holes should be back filled with well-compacted earth.

The final payment to the contractor should be made only after all work has been completed according to the contract and has been found to be satisfactory.

Remember, the best way of avoiding expensive problems is to be aware of them before you purchase your house or before you undertake repairs and renovations. You can also seek advice from organisations such as Archicentre who have carried out thousands of home inspections for home owners and prospective buyers. A home inspection can help you to make a realistic appraisal of the property before you decide to buy, renovate or repair.

 

 

Source

http://www.build.com.au/stump-subfloor

Stump subfloor

 
Stump sub floor  
Stump flooring is ideal for houses that are on uneven or sloping land.

What is a stump subfloor?

If your floor is supported by many columns or stumps, then you have a stump subfloor. According to the lie of the land, these will be of varying heights to keep the floor perfectly level. It is very important that there are enough stumps to support the weight of your house, and that they are spaced in such a way as to provide maximum strength. Stumps are used to hold up the floor frame, which in turn supports your chosen flooring surface.

 What is it made of?

Stumps were traditionally made of hardwood, but over time these rot away leaving the floor unsupported. These have now been replaced by treated timber, cast concrete or galvanised steel columns. These must be designed by an engineer to ensure correct sizing and spacing.

 Are there variations?

Prefabricated and adjustable galvanised steel columns are available. These have the distinct advantage of being able to be adjusted onsite, which makes a very big difference in terms of the maintenance required further down the track. 

Stump sub floor 2  
The stumps can be screwed higher or lower to adjust the height of the stumps.

How are stump subfloors installed?

First, the building is pegged out on the site with string lines according to the plan and in the exact position required. Measurement here is crucial; this will affect every other part of the building’s construction. Next, at the required locations, post holes are dug. From here, installation could be managed in one of two ways.

The first way is to install the whole beam and joist flooring frame at the correct height and position with props. This is often done using concrete bricks or jacks for a low floor or acro props for higher floors. Once these are in place and supporting the floor, stumps are bolted to the bottom of the floor. With these attached, the holes into which they're suspended are then filled with concrete. When the concrete sets, the props can be removed and your floor frame should be fully supported by the stumps.

The second way is to pour concrete to the required depth, drop in the stumps (making sure they are aligned correctly) and then backfill the rest of the hole with more concrete. This requires a great deal of accuracy to get the stumps aligned at the right height and position, as each stump needs to be supported in place until the concrete sets.

Adjustable stumps can be used with the first method by filling the holes with concrete first, setting up the floor frame on props and then bolting the stumps to the frame and the concrete.

 Where are stump subfloors used?

This type of subfloor is very common, but has a big advantage when it comes to sloping terrain. Instead of requiring extensive digging work to lay a slab foundation on level ground, the stumps can be longer on one side to even out the slope of the land. Stumps are also more appropriate than concrete slabs in areas where the soil is more reactive, because they can be adjusted to compensate for settling. 

Advantages
  • Can be adapted for hilly or settling terrain without heavy renovation work
  • Allows easy access to under-floor utilities like plumbing and ducted heating
Disadvantages
  • Requires complete accuracy in setup. Mistakes will have long term repercussions for the stability
  • Because the underside of the home is exposed, it will lose heat faster and may therefore be less efficient
 
house foundation post and columns

Column or Stump Sub Floors

Columns or stump sub floors are a common building practice and are especially useful on sloping sites. The columns can be made of steel tube, pre cast concrete or treated timber these need to be designed by an engineer for correct sizing. Steel columns can fabricated to suit the house sub floor frame and house lay out and then galvanised. However prefabricated galvanised columns are available ready to install and they are adjustable on site. These columns are available from BlueScope steel and can be ordered in through a local hardware store.

Concrete and steel columns

Concrete columns (prefabricated) or stumps are also used however they are not as common as galvanised steel columns. House foundations of old were built of hardwood timber stumps and over time these rot out. Most of these rotten stumps were replaced with prefabricated concrete columns or stumps. However these old rotten timber stumps are easily replaced with prefabricated galvanised steel columns and adjusted on site.

Installation:

Option one:

To install your columns set out your building with string lines making sure that it is correct to the plan and in the exact position on the block. Then mark the centres of the columns by setting string lines square to the building or outside string line that are in correct position.

Step two:

Drill or dig the holes for each of the columns as per the specifications segalvanised postst by the engineer on your approved house or renovation plans.

Step three:

Pour concrete into the holes to the required depth on the plans.(do not use quick set concrete as it is not strong enough).

Step four:

Columns are lowered into the holes and aligned with the string line and then concrete is back filled into the holes. Then the floor bears are installed, however this way requires greater accuracy to get the posts at the right height and position.

Option two:

To install your columns set out the building layout with string lines making sure that is correct to the plan. If you are adding to an existing building make sure you are square with the existing home. Double check your string lines.

:galvanised posts

Step one

Drill or dig all of your holes as per the plan mark them by measurement and then with a plumb bob as per the plan.

Step two:

Using props install the entire flooring frame (bearers). This frame should be installed in line with your correct string lines. The props can be acro props from the hire shop or large pieces of timber for low floor heights. When the floor bearer frame is in place and propped at the right height to the plan - double check for square and correct height.

Step three:

Install the columns or post into the correct position as per the plan as if they were holding the floor up. When they are bolted to the floor frame and extending into the holes fill the holes with concrete. Fill each hole with the correct amount of concrete as per the engineers specifications on the plan. When the concrete has property set the props can be removed and the floor should be in the correct position.

Variant:

A slightly different way to this is to fill the holes with concrete in step one and then bolt the columns to the concrete into step three. However an (on site) adjustable post or column should be used like the Blue Scope galvanised post or similar. Also use chemset bolts as per the engineers specifications.

 

  Source
http://www.renovationrobot.com.au/foundations/stripfootings.html
 
Foundation- Strip Footings
house foundation

Strip Footings

Strip footings are the foundations required when building a double brick or brick veneer house with a timber floor. The outside walls of the house are bricked up to floor height and then the floor is installed. For this to be able to be done correctly there must be a strong foundation for the house to sit on. This foundation is called a strip footing.

This is a reinforced concrete beam installed into soil that is laid around the entire outside of the house.

The set out is done by placing hurdles/profiles so that two string lines can be attached and can be placed on the outside of the building line. Place a string line for the outside of the footing and another one for the inside of the footing. It is important that the hurdles are placed a minimum of 3 metres from the building line so that a backhoe can dig the trenches without running over the hurdles. The footing should be located as per your approved building plan and so the brick wall can be attached or laid on top of it.

Footing trench excavation

So the backhoe operator is able to dig accurate trenches the trenches need to be marked out on the ground. To do this place a straight piece of timber under the string lines, make sure it is plumb and then mark with lime. The string lines are removed after the trenches have been marked so the backhoe can get in. Use a level to make sure that your timber is plumb under line and then mark the ground with the lime or you can use spray line marking paint. This is done under the outside and inside lines for the foundation so the backhoe operator knows exactly where to dig. After the trenches have been dug follow up with a shovel to make sure the trenches have been cleaned up and the corners squared up. Care must be taken so that the sides of the trenches do not collapse under load and trenches over 1.5 metres must be shored so they are safe.

Design

The design of the Strip footing needs to be prepared by an geotechnical engineer so that the type of ground and the slope/drainage is taken into account. Also on a sloping site a stepping strip footing may be required. The, stepping strip footing steps down with the slope of the land. The steps in the footings step down to match the height of the brick that will be laid on the top. This allows the brick layer to lay brick straight on the footings without the need to cut the bricks down. As cutting of the bricks is time consuming thus will cost more money.

Laying the Reinforcement mesh

The size and type of the trench mesh will be on your approved plan. Place the mesh on bar chairs and place in the trenches. Make sure that they fully overlap at the corners and any joins overlap by the required amount on your plans. All bar mesh needs to be wired together at T sections and corners and any joins. The top and bottom mesh are wired together with a gap between. This is done by wiring bar spaces to the bottom and top mesh around the complete building line.

Pouring the concrete

When pouring the concrete ensures that the concrete truck does not get to close to the trench as the trench may be damaged. However if you do not have good access to the site a concrete pump will be required. When working out the volume of your concrete (depth x width x length) allow extra concrete as the trench will not be perfect. It is necessary to round up to the nearest 0.2 increment as a minimum however more may be required so evaluate your site. It is better to have a bit too much concrete then not enough. Concrete can only be poured after the trenches and mesh have been inspected by your council building authority.

 

 
concrete house slab

Foundation - Concrete Slabs

Concrete slabs

Concrete slabs are an important part of the modern home. Most homes have foundations that have ether concrete strip footings and pads or a concrete slab will form the foundation and floor of the new home. When a house is designed, an engineer will take into account the type soil, the load, and slope of the land to determine the strength of the slab required. The general class type of soils when foundations are considered is as follows:

Class and Foundation (ground type)

  • A - Mostly made up of sand and rock and has very little change when wet.
  • S - Slightly reactive clay in the soil with only slight movement due to moisture.
  • M - Moderately reactive clay with moderate movement due to moisture.
  • H - Highly reactive clay site with High ground movement.
  • E - Extremely reactive site with extreme movement due to moisture.
  • P - Soft soils, land slip, mine subsidence, etc. Collapsing soils due to moisture and soil structure changes.

The main types of slab construction are footing slabs, stiffened raft, Waffle raft, pier and slab/pile and slab. The construction of a slab does also depend on the type ofconcrete slab house construction used such as double brick, timber clad, and brick veneer.

Stiffened Raft

Stiffened raft is a slab that is poured on to the ground with concrete edge and internal beams. The whole slab is poured at the same time.

Waffle Raft

Waffle raft is a concrete slab that made up of close grid stiffening ribs. These ribs are made by using waffle polystyrene void forms which are laid out in a grid pattern and locked together so they do not move during the concrete pour. The waffle grid must be laid down on a level surface and locked together. This type of slab is ideal for very reactive clay sites as the whole slab sits on top of the ground and is not embedded into it.

Pier and Slab

Pier and slab is a slab system that uses a pier grid into the soil and then concrete slab construction the slab will be poured on top. The holes are drilled down into the soil to the engineers specifications and then filled with concrete. Then the slab is poured on top of the piers connecting the piers and the slab. The size of the piers and the depth depends on the soil type and the load of the house; these will be detailed by a structural engineer.

Slab Materials

House slabs are not just made up of concrete they have a system of materials that make up the slab. The concrete slab or foundations must be able to cope with the soil type and the load of the house that will be constructed on top of it.

The House Slab Process

Firstly a site is leveled to suite the slab and house construction with the outer form work put into place. Then the drainage plumbing is put into place under the slab site. After this a vapour barrier or a damp proofing membrane is installed. This barrier is plastic sheeting that is placed under the slab this prevents moisture from the ground rising and concrete form workdamaging the steel reinforcement, floor coverings, and walls. When installing the plastic membrane the plastic sheets should over lap a minimum of 200mm and then be taped together with waterproof tape. Next the steel reinforcing is put into place as per the engineers specifications with the whole grid of steel reinforcement sitting on plastic chairs so the concrete can encase the steel when poured. Then the concrete is poured and spread on top it then smoothed and flattened with the use of concrete floats and mechanical trowels.

For steep sloping sites post or columns are often used: see Column sub floors. However a stepped concrete floor/slab can also be used but will need concrete piers.

 
Source
http://renovationrobot.com.au

Home Renovation and DIY information

 

  You will find great home renovation tips and practical ideas and home building projects.

So whether you are planning to build a home or you just want home renovation ideas, take a look at all the free home improvement information subject by subject. 

Home improvement is a great way to add value to your home and achieve the best result when you sell your home. Home Renovating can also make the lifestyle changes that your family need that effect and improve your families interaction and well being. Diy home renovations like bathrooms, kitchens, lighting or even solar power will improve the value of your property and your lifestyle.

Home Renovation 'DIY'

You can learn 'How to do it yourself' Just select a subject and you can find a step by step process on home renovation and diy home improvement. Whether you want to do part of the work or all of it you can learn how to diy for free.

Also check out our renovation materials links page.
 

Renovate for profit

Another reason to renovate is for profit or to improve a rental property thus adding value. Like renovating your roofing, painting, or adding new house windows all change the look and feel or the home and add to the real estate value. You can also add value to your home for investment or lifestyle needs like a growing family. Home renovating key areas of your home or adding an extension the value of your home is increased and your lifestyle improved. Simple thinks like painting and lighting are great ways to improve the look of your home and add value. Other areas may be addinghouse constructiong a deck which increases living space thus increasing value. Remodeling your bathroom is also a great way to add value and in fact a tried bathroom will decrease the sale price of a house at the time of sale.

With the costs of moving at $20,000 plus many people are looking into renovating their existing homes and making them into the home of their dreams. Adding features that add value and also making it their own. Financial pressures around the world mean it often makes good sense to diy home renovate and save. .

Renewable Power and Home Renovating

Using renewable energy like solar power and wind power is becoming stronger everyday as people want to look after the environment and save money on their long term power costs. Many people add solar power and renewable energy products to their homes while carrying out home renovations or home improvement. Solar panels and solar power system prices are becoming more Solar panelsviable as grid power cost seem to go up every year. Solar panels have a life of 25years or more and thus can be a great long term investment.

Wind power is not as common in residential homes, however quieter wind turbines are available and make sense for an area that has a reasonable amount of wind.

Insulation is also a great way to save money over the long term and is the most cost effective solution to reducing your energy bills. In fact home renovations over a particular size and new homes must have wall and ceiling insulation and some must have a solar hot water system installed.

Home Renovating without the Pain - getting it right

Home renovating within your local councils home building rules and laws is an important part of getting your home renovation right. Some people just go head forgetting to ask their local council if it is ok. This can result in the wasting of thousands of dollars and time. Your local can answer many questions of the phone or you can get a copy of their home building rules and law online. If your home renovation is medium to large most councils will let you apply online for a building permit.

One of the main thing home owners get wrong when home renovating is not knowing the home building process. This simply means knowing the order in which the home renovating and building is done so building contractors are not having to waste time and money.
Look at the construction and Extensions pages for more details.

....................................

What's New?
Property Investment

The golden rules of Property Investment! It's a great resource to help you make money from real estate.

view more...

 

 

pergolaLearn how to Build a pergola - DIY.

Pergolas

timber deckBuild a timber deck - step by step.

read more

 
 

power sawFind great home renovation books, power tools, and hand tool.

Go To Shop

...........................

 

 

 
 
Our Service
Welcome to
Eastern Restumping
& Underpinning.

We have been servicing Metro Melbourne for more than a decade and have the experience you are looking for when it comes to securing the foundations of your home.

Professional Reblock & Underpin Checklist

What is Restumping?

Restumping also known as restumping is the replacement of rotted and defective stumps which cause structural damage to your home.

What is reblocking

Why do you need to reblock?

Why reblock

Are you planning renovations?

when else do you reblock?

Reblocking (also known as Restumping) is seperated into five stages:

Stage 1 – Preperation

Stage 2 – Lift House

Stage 3 – Dig Holes

Stage 4 – Attach stumps and set in concrete

Stage 5 – Clean up

Reblocking may entail the re-leveling of floor areas, and could involve the replacement of sub-floor timbers and floor boards.

 To top of page

  Home